The art of manipulating fabric

[pt. 1:] Controlled crushing. [1.] Gathering. Gathering basics

Single-edge gathering

Opposite-edge gathering

All-sides gathering

[2.] Shirring. Shirring

Pattern shirring

[pt. 2:] Supplementary fullness. [3.] Making ruffles. Ruffle basics

Gathered single-edged ruffle

Gathered double-edged ruffle

Pleated single or double

Edged ruffle

[4.] Making flounces. Circular flounce

Controlled flounce

[5.] Making godets. Godet

[pt. 3:] Systematic folding. [6.] Pleating. Pleat basics

Flat pleats

Partial pleats

Projecting pleats

Accordion pleats

Wrinkled pleating

Double-controlled pleats

[7.] Smocking. Smocking basics

English smocking

Direct smocking

North American smocking

Italian smocking

[8.] Tucking. Tuck basics

Standard tucks

Curved tucks

Shell tucks

Contoured tucks

Slashed tucks

Cross-stitched tucks

Cross-tacked tucks

Partially seamed tucks

Seamless tucks

Pattern tucking

[pt. 4:] Filled reliefs. [9.] Cording. Cording basics

Hand-sewn corded quilting

Machine-sewn corded quilting

Surface cording

[10.] Quilting. Quilting basics

Hand quilting

Machine quilting

[11.] Stuffing. Stuffing basics

Stuffed quilting

Stuffed applique

Elevated applique

Half-rounds

Connected rolls

Little pillows

Biscuits

Peaks and valleys

[pt. 5:] Structured surfaces. [12.] Using darts. Dart basics

Single-pointed dart

Double-pointed dart

[pt. 6:] Mixed manipulations. [13.] Combinations. Technique variations

Creative combinations

[14.] Appendix. Hand stitches

Glossary

Selected bibliography

Costume exhibitions

Endnote.